Salamanca: Two cathedrals, one frog, and a whole lot of history

But come on, how could you not
love a city that looks like this.?!

Before I write this post, I should give a quick disclaimer.  Salamanca is, for me, the place in Spain which has had the most impact on my life.  After spending two and a half years there, I developed a love for the city which will never go away.  So, I'm probably more than a little biased, but, I will try to keep this post in line with my previous ones, and not glorify the city too much (although, it doesn't need me to do that, it's amazing in its own right).  

Located in the region of Spain known as Castilla y León, Salamanca houses the oldest university in the country, and the 4th oldest in the world.  Dating back to 1218, the University of Salamanca has a very rich history.  The major river running through the city the Rió Tormes has been immortalized in Spanish literature as the birthplace of Lazarillo de Tormes.  Although the story is fictional, and has an author unknown, the 16th century story has found its way into the hearts of Spaniards, and anyone who loves and studies Spanish literature would be deft to not be familiar with the story of the poor Lazarillo as he works his way through adolescence into manhood in a trying time in Spanish history.  The story follows the protagonist through various locations in Spain, but legend has it that he was born in Salamanca, in the Rió Tormes, and the city has a statue commemorating his exit of the city with "el ciego" (the blind man) on the way to begin his life-long adventure.

There are several attractions that draw visitors to Salamanca.  The first, and most obvious, is the University.  Originally founded in 1134, but not given an official charter until 1218, the Universidad de Salamanca has the fame of being the place where language was first studied and encouraged.  But the impact that this institution had did not stop there.  It was at the Universidad de Salamanca where Columbus would lobby for support of his journey which would ultimately lead him to the Americas.


While all of the history of the Univestity is impressive enough in its own right, there are some specific traces which have been carried over into modern times.  The most notable of these being the "rana" or "frog".  Hidden in the historic facade of the University, legend has it that if you can find the frog you will either 1)pass your exams or 2) fall in love.

The facade
Picture taken from
http://ratkoscorner.deviantart.com/art/Universidad-de-Salamanca-184293383

A little bit of a closer look.
Can you find the frog?

The most famous of the "facultades" or departments of the University is the "facultad de filología" or the Philology Department, where students study languages, literatures, and cultures.  Located in the center of the city, the three buildings making up this department can be found right next to the cathedral.

The "old zone" or "casco antiguo" in Salamanca is smaller than in other cities, but this doesn't mean that it's lacking in charm.  When walking around the city, one would be hard pressed to not be overwhelmed by the beauty, cobblestone streets, historic buildings, and ornate facades decorating the churches.  Starting out in the Plaza Mayor, considered one of the prettiest plazas in all of Spain, the visitor to this city will immediately understand why this city has been called "la ciudad dorada" or "the golden city".  The sandstone which was used in the construction of many of the historic buildings gives off a soft glow when illuminated at night all around the "casco antiguo".  The Plaza Mayor is one of the best examples of this.

The plaza is surrounded by shops and cafes, and on a warm spring or summer day, the terraces have their tables out and people come out to sit with friends or family and enjoy a café con leche or a caña.  Although enjoying your coffee in the Plaza Mayor adds a certain charm to the morning, it should be noted that in the Plaza, prices are often twice or even three times what you would pay in other spots around the city.  Regardless, a trip to Salamanca wouldn't be complete without a relaxing afternoon drink in the heart of the city.

Exiting the Plaza through one of the arches directly across from the clock will bring the visitor even deeper into the "old zone".  There, you will find the entrance to the "Rúa", the historic street leading from the Main Square to the Cathedral.  Along this street you will find restaurants and tourist shops.  It's always a bustling street, with tourists, students, and Salmantinos rushing from one place to another.

More or less half-way between the Plaza and the Cathedral is the "Casa de la Conchas" or the Shell House.  Simply seeing it will tell you why it's name is very adequate.  Covered in the Concha normally associated with the Galician city Santiago de Compostela, this historic building was constructed from the end of the 15th to the beginning of the 16th century.  Originally belonging to a professor of the University of Salamanca who was also knighted in the Order of Santiago de Compostela (hence the shells) the building now houses a public library.

In front of the Casa de la Conchas is another University, la Universidad Pontificia.  Historically a religious school it is now a private university.  While not as well-known and renowned as the Universidad de Salamanca, this building is still worth a visit.  There are two towers which make up the main facade of the university, and these are open to the public!  For a small price, visitors can climb to the top, and get amazing views of the entire city.

Continuing down the Rúa brings you to the Cathedral, or better said "Cathedrals".  Another aspect that adds to Salamanca's fame is that it doesn't have one, but two cathedrals.  However, if you were to look for both of them, you may be hard pressed to find them.  They are actually built one on top of the other.  The Old Cathedral was built between the 12th and 14th centuries.  However, when the construction of a new, updated cathedral was started in the 16th century, instead of completely tearing down the Old Cathedral to build the new, the New Cathedral was simply added to the new.  Although it is true that in almost every cathedral around Spain construction and "updates" were made to the original building, what makes this one different is that instead of simply changing the architectural style of the old, an entire new cathedral was constructed.

One of the best ways to see the inside of the Cathedral isn't actually through the front door.  Around the corner on the back side of the Cathedral is access to what is called "Ieronimus".  This is another tower tour, and I should warn you, that it involves walking up a lot of stairs. It is worth it though, when you are given views of both the Old and New Cathedrals, the roof tops, and the surrounding city.  At night there is a special tour, in which the cathedral is illuminated, and a guide gives an explanation of the various rooms and artifacts that are located throughout.

The magic of this city does not stop at the end of the Rúa.  On a nice, sunny afternoon, one of the best ways to get amazing views of the entire city (for free!) is to cross the historic Roman Bridge (Puente Romano), and walk along the running path on the other side of the river.  Stopping at a "bocadillo"  shop on the Rúa on your way and grabbing a sandwich of Spanish Ham on a baguette makes for a great picnic, and the benches lining the river provide the perfect place to relax and enjoy the sites!

Spanish Ham (still on the leg)

View of the Cathedral from the other side of the Río Tormes

If you're feeling up to it, there is a small shack on the edge of the river which offers paddle boats that can be taken out and used for up to an hour.  Fair warning, however, if it is a hot, sunny day, there is almost no way of finding shade while out on the river, except, of course, for when you go under the bridges.

Paddle boats

While Salamanca may seem small, it has a lot to offer!  Walking around the city, you will find various museums, gardens, and cafés filled with yummy tapas just begging to be tried.  As is true with almost every city in Spain, the magic comes in discovering it for yourself, in getting lost along the winding roads, and stumbling upon a café or some other hidden away treasure.  With this post, my main goal is to spark the interest of eager travelers to add this city to their list of destinations.  Whether you spend a day or a week in the Golden City, you will see why this city makes its way into the hearts of all who visit.  As Cervantes said, "... Salamanca que enhechiza a voluntad de volver a ella a todos los que de la apacibilidad de su vivienda han gustado."

Reflecting on Spain from the Outside

This post won't be long.  It's going to be more of a running list of things I've noticed which make Spain different than other places I've been.  I've done something like this previously in my other blog.  However, after a recent trip to other European countries (Czech Republic, Austria, and Hungary) I've noticed a few aspects of Spanish culture which I didn't appreciate until now.

*Click Here to read my previous blog post*

To begin with, I have to admit that I expected to visit other European countries and be blown away by their efficiency and manners (being that Spain doesn't have the best reputation in these areas).  However, I was surprised by how wrong I was!  While in Austria I was impressed at the honesty and integrity of the people, in the Czech Republic the customer service was AMAZING, and in Hungary everyone we came across was happy and helpful, there were still aspects of Spanish culture which I found lacking in these places.

To begin with, smoking has been illegal in restaurants and bars in Spain for as long as I've been here (since 2012) and if I'm not mistaken, the law was in place for a little over a year, maybe more, before that.  However, in both the Czech Republic and Hungary restaurants and bars still had smoking sections.  And, I should mention that they weren't always in a little room in the back of the place.  In one specific bar we went to, you had to walk through the smoking section to get to the non-smoking area upstairs.

In addition, Spanish people are generally always conscientious of who's turn it is when standing in lines.  It is very common to hear Spaniards walk into a bank or the post office (where the line is always very long) and ask "Who is last in line?".  Now, to a foreigner walking into this situation, and not understanding the system, it may seem like Spaniards don't understand how lines work.  Often times, after knowing who is in front of them, it's not uncommon to see someone find a chair, and sit down, waiting until their turn to go to the front of the line.  Other times, it seems like just a crowd of people.  But be sure, they all know when their turn is.  This is something that I found a little different in Austria especially.  It could be because we were around mainly tourists who were probably rushing to get into the attraction or get their food.  However, it made me appreciate this aspect of Spanish culture more.

And the last thing I have found to be different in Spain than anywhere else I've been has to do with the unspoken manners which people uphold on public transportation.  You will almost NEVER see a Spaniard recline their chair on a bus or train (and if they do, they will ask the person behind them before they do).  The only time a seat is reclined is if there is no one behind them, and when someone does sit there, their chair will be put back to the normal position.  I have grown to really love and appreciate this.  I would rather sit with my chair straight up, than with someone's head in my lap on a 4 hour bus ride.

Well, I think that will be all for now, but as I travel and appreciate different aspects more, I will be sure to add them to this post.

Santiago de Compostela: The end of the Road

Since the discovery of what are believed to be the remains of St. James (an apostle of Christ) in the 9th century, millions of people have traveled to Santiago de Compostela, following one of the various routes known today as "El Camino de Santiago" or "The Way of St. James".  Throughout history, this pilgrimage has gone through highs and lows in terms of popularity, but has never completely ceased.  Today, pilgrims can choose from one of 13 different routes leading to the historic city, although the most famous is probably the "Camino Francés" (The French Way).

A "Camino" sign in
Segovia (Castilla y León)

All along the path, pilgrims follow signs, which lead them through the Iberian Peninsula.  These signs are all shaped like shells.  Any visitor to Spain has probably seen one of these at some point, as they appear in almost every major city.  The signs take on many different forms, some on the ground, some which appear like road signs, others are simply carved into stone.  Whatever they look like, they're hard to miss.  This shell has become one of the primary symbols of the Camino. The origins of this symbol have been disputed, but the most accepted myth dates back to the arrival of Saint James' body to Spain.  The story goes that while his followers were transporting him to the peninsula, a storm hit the ship, sending the body overboard.  Later, it is believed that it washed up on the shore of Galicia, covered in Scallop Shells.  The shell itself stands for various things, holding its own version of symbolism for the pilgrim.  For example, the grooves in the shell can be seen as the various routes, all leading to one point. Historically, it also served a purpose, as it was the perfect size and shape to be used to collect and drink water.  

Another famous symbol that can be seen all throughout Spain which has its origins in Santiago is "la cruz de Santiago" or "the cross of St. James".  It is shaped like a traditional cross, but with the end coming to a point, imitating the edge of a sword.  The most common image also has flor-de-lys on the sides.  This sign represents the Order of St. James.  Founded originally in the 12th century, the initial purpose of this group was to protect the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, and protect Christianity (as during this time, the peninsula was going through the "Reconquista", in which the Christian nations were waging a war against the Islamic occupation- lasting from 711-1492- of the souther regions).

It's hard to see, but the Cross is there on the outside of the balcony

Whether you decide to travel to Santiago by way of the Camino, or more mornern forms of transportation, the city still seems to hold a sense of magic for all who visit.  With the grey stone buildings, cobblestone roads, and narrow, winding streets, the city seems to be frozen in time.  Walking through the old zone (Casco Historico) will be sure to transport visitors back in time.  

The primary attraction of the city is the awe inspiring Cathedral.  Containing elements of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture, the original construction was started in 1075, with additions being done in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.  Easily one of the most impressive cathedrals in Spain, the outside is extremely ornate and simply breath-taking.

The inside of the Cathedral is as amazing as the outside.  Upon entering through the main doors, visitors are greeted by the original facade, which was covered with the newer additions.  It dates back to the 12th century, and has a Romanesque style.  (Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a picture of it during my last visit, since it was being restored).

The altarpiece in the center of the church is one of the most exquisite I've seen.  With ornate detail, covered in gold and jewels, it's almost impossible to take in all that it has to offer.

Visitors have the option of going both up into and down below the alter.  Pilgrims, historically, and even nowadays, go up into the alter, where they are able to hug the saint.  (In the past, the figure was covered in precious jewels, however, when people would hug him, they would bite them off with their teeth, leading to the decision to replace the real jewels with fakes).  Below the alter there is a small window, which gives a glimpse of the box containing the supposed remains of Saint James.

Entrance to the crypt of Santiago

Walking around the church, it is quickly apparent that it is shaped like a cross.  Along the outside walls are various smaller chapels, used for different ceremonies.  Some are bigger than others, but all are impressive in their own right.

In one of the chapels.
Can you see the shell and the cross?

For visitors that are feeling more adventurous, there is a roof-top tour.  You have to go ahead of time to buy your tickets, and they have both Spanish and English tours available.  Giving participants the "behind-the-scenes" view of the cathedral, you will be taken up the back stairs, around the balconies, and across the rooftop, which offers amazing views!  It is by far one of the best parts of visiting Santiago!

The entire city of Santiago is spotted with various plazas and parks.  The most famous of these is the Plaza del Obradoiro, from which you can see the main facade of the Cathedral.  The word Obradoiro in Gallego (the language spoken in Galicia) is very similar to its Spanish equivalent "obrador".  This means "workshop".  This could be an indication of the previous use of the plaza, where workshops and stores were set up for the pilgrims as they arrived to Santiago.  Now, the plaza is surrounded by the Cathedral on one side, the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos (which was a pilgrim hospital in its history, but is now a hotel- technically called a "Parador" which means it is owned by the Spanish government) the Colegio de San Jerome, and the Palacio de Raxio.

The true charm of this city is in discovering it for yourself.  Getting lost in the Casco Viejo, finding small cafes and shops, and taking in the sights.  The Rúa do Franco is the most famous street, as it is lined with bars, restaurants, and tiny shops.  The streets running parallel to it are equally as impressive, and it would be very easy to spend an entire afternoon wandering from one restaurant to another, ordering a "ración" or "tapa", strolling in and out of shops, and letting yourself get lost in the medieval feel that this city boasts.

The most famous dish in Santiago is the "pulpo" or octopus.  It's famous world-wide, and if you visit the northern region of Spain, it's a prerequisite to sample the amazing cuisine!

Speaking of food... While the entire city seems to be swarming with restaurant after restaurant and bar after bar, there is one place that is sure to please.  Hidden away, O Filandon is a tapas bar located in the back of a wine shop.  With a unique atmosphere and rustic vibe, visitors are warmed by a fireplace, while they enjoy a drink and some "embutido" (cured meats, like ham, chorizo, etc.) or a variety of other options! The walls are lined with napkins, which contain notes or messages from previous visitors, coming from all over the world to discover the magic of Santiago.   The place is small, so its better to go later (around 3-4) as this is the end of the lunch rush.

As if the city didn't have enough charm already, one of the most quintessential aspects of the city are the various street performers.  Located all around the old zone, musicians serenade the passerby with anything from guitar to gaita (a Galician bag-pipe).

A gaita performer (sorry the picture isn't very clear)

I think this is a dijurido!! 

In short, Santiago is the city of magic.  Pilgrims walking through the streets, locals bustling through their daily errands, all to the backdrop of Medieval Spain.  Being that it is located in Galicia, it is expected that it will rain, but this in a way adds to the city's "encanto", making the stones glisten in the street lights.

I can say for sure that this city is not done with me, and I will be going back as soon as possible.  Hopefully I'll do the Camino! 

Bilbao: Industry and Innovation

The northern region of Spain just south of France and neighboring Catalonia is known as "el País Vasco" or the Basque Country.  This is a region with an extremely rich culture and some very unique elements.

One of the most famous, and also most intreguing aspects of the Basque Country is the language spoken there.  While el País Vasco is part of Spain, and Spanish is spoken everywhere, the region boasts it's own tongue Euskera.  While this is also true in other regions of Spain (Galicia and Catalonia) what makes the Basque language unique is that it is the only language spoken in Western Europe that is not of Indo-European origin, and in fact, the origin is in itself a mystery.  There are some theories as to where it came from, but none have been proven.  

The largest city in the Basque Country is Bilbao, a city that is known for its factories and industrial history.  However, the city has been undergoing a sort of "remodeling" over the last few decades, and the once grey, gloomy metropolitan area has now been infused with culture, color, and its very own personality.  

Without a doubt, the most famous landmark in Biblao is the Guggenheim.  Opened in 1997, the museum was designed by Frank Gehry, and offers a modern and sleek architecture that instantly changed the landscape of the once industrial area.

Surrounding the Guggenheim are various other art pieces, each designed by different artists.  They all reflect a modern style, which will continue in the various exhibits in the museum.  

Puppy!

Inside you can find both permanent and temporary exhibits.  Unfortunately the contents are somewhat underwhelming compared to the structure itself.  However, entrance fees aren't overly priced (6-10 euro more or less depending on if you're a student or child, etc.) and while the exhibits were not comparable to what you might find in El Prado or La Reina Sofia in Madrid, the experience is still enjoyable, and the works are still worth seeing.  

inside the Guggenheim

A work of art inside the Guggenheim.
I wasn't able to take pictures of many of the pieces

Keeping in line with the modern, sleek feel this industrialized city boasts, the bridges that cross the River Nervión sprinkle in color, shape, and history.

  

Arguably, the most famous the Zubizuri (Basque for "white bridge") was designed by Calatrava, the same person who designed the Ciudad de Artes in Valencia.  The bridge was first opened in 1997.  While the bridge is impressive in its form, the practical purpose for which it was created, crossing it, presented a problem.  Due to its slippery walkway, pedestrians were constantly loosing their footing, and falling!  This was worsened by the rain (and in the north of Spain, rain is very common).  After some debates with the designer, the city decided to add grip-strips, allowing for a more secure footing.

The second bridge I will mention is the Arcos Rojos.  This bridge can be considered an external installation of the Guggenheim museum.  Designed by Daniel Buren, the bridge was opened on the tenth anniversary of the museum.  

Like almost every major city in Spain, Bilbao has its fair share of churches and cathedrals.  The most well-know is the Basilica de Begoña.  While reaching the top involves a walk up a hill, the trip is very much worth it.  The church celebrates the patron saint of Biscay (the territory in which Bilbao is situated) the Virgin Begoña.  Construction of the humble, yet elegant church began in the 16th century.  

In the heart of the old zone of Bilbao, you will find the Catedral de Santiago.  Built in the 14th-15th centuries, this cathedral celebrates Saint James.  As Bilbao is a key stop on the Camino de Santiago, the name is fitting.  

The old zone (or Casco Viejo) offers much more than the Cathedral.  A simple stroll through the streets is enough to make you instantly fall in love with the Basque charm.  The colorful buildings lining the streets, the signs in both Basque and Spanish, and the multitude of restaurants to choose from will make you lose yourself in the moment.  

Beautiful colors and buildings

The País Vasco is known for its gastronomy.  Offering a wide range of food and drinks, visitors can enjoy a lovely sit-down meal, or hop from bar to bar, sampling the various tapas on display.  Either way, the food is sure to please! 

After a delicious lunch, a quick walk through the old zone will bring you to the funicular.  A must-see when in Biblao.  Transporting visitors to a breath-taking look-out, the Artxanda Funicular is very inexpensive, making it more than worth the stop.  Bring your camera!  The views from the top are perfect photo-ops! 

On our way to the top!

Breath-taking view!

As if there isn't enough to see in Bilbao capital, one of the most famous landmarks is located just a short metro ride away, in the town of Portugalete.  Literally meaning, "hanging bridge", the puente colgante transports both pedestrians and vehicles from Portugalete on one side of the Nervion River to Getxo on the other. The "hanging" part of the bridge is literal, as you have to board a suspended gondola.  If you're feeling a little brave (and willing to pay the extra fee) you can also cross along the top, on foot.  

Bilbao is an amazing city, that offers everything from culture, to cuisine, to modern art with a mixture of historic charm.  There's something for everyone.  One drawback that visitors will find (which is not unique to Biblao, but an aspect of the País Vasco in general) is the prices.  Unlike many places in Spain, visiting this region will put a slight dent in your wallet.  However, if you plan wisely, it's worth the cost, as the city will not disappoint.