Santiago de Compostela: The end of the Road

Since the discovery of what are believed to be the remains of St. James (an apostle of Christ) in the 9th century, millions of people have traveled to Santiago de Compostela, following one of the various routes known today as "El Camino de Santiago" or "The Way of St. James".  Throughout history, this pilgrimage has gone through highs and lows in terms of popularity, but has never completely ceased.  Today, pilgrims can choose from one of 13 different routes leading to the historic city, although the most famous is probably the "Camino Francés" (The French Way).

A "Camino" sign in
Segovia (Castilla y León)

All along the path, pilgrims follow signs, which lead them through the Iberian Peninsula.  These signs are all shaped like shells.  Any visitor to Spain has probably seen one of these at some point, as they appear in almost every major city.  The signs take on many different forms, some on the ground, some which appear like road signs, others are simply carved into stone.  Whatever they look like, they're hard to miss.  This shell has become one of the primary symbols of the Camino. The origins of this symbol have been disputed, but the most accepted myth dates back to the arrival of Saint James' body to Spain.  The story goes that while his followers were transporting him to the peninsula, a storm hit the ship, sending the body overboard.  Later, it is believed that it washed up on the shore of Galicia, covered in Scallop Shells.  The shell itself stands for various things, holding its own version of symbolism for the pilgrim.  For example, the grooves in the shell can be seen as the various routes, all leading to one point. Historically, it also served a purpose, as it was the perfect size and shape to be used to collect and drink water.  

Another famous symbol that can be seen all throughout Spain which has its origins in Santiago is "la cruz de Santiago" or "the cross of St. James".  It is shaped like a traditional cross, but with the end coming to a point, imitating the edge of a sword.  The most common image also has flor-de-lys on the sides.  This sign represents the Order of St. James.  Founded originally in the 12th century, the initial purpose of this group was to protect the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, and protect Christianity (as during this time, the peninsula was going through the "Reconquista", in which the Christian nations were waging a war against the Islamic occupation- lasting from 711-1492- of the souther regions).

It's hard to see, but the Cross is there on the outside of the balcony

Whether you decide to travel to Santiago by way of the Camino, or more mornern forms of transportation, the city still seems to hold a sense of magic for all who visit.  With the grey stone buildings, cobblestone roads, and narrow, winding streets, the city seems to be frozen in time.  Walking through the old zone (Casco Historico) will be sure to transport visitors back in time.  

The primary attraction of the city is the awe inspiring Cathedral.  Containing elements of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture, the original construction was started in 1075, with additions being done in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.  Easily one of the most impressive cathedrals in Spain, the outside is extremely ornate and simply breath-taking.

The inside of the Cathedral is as amazing as the outside.  Upon entering through the main doors, visitors are greeted by the original facade, which was covered with the newer additions.  It dates back to the 12th century, and has a Romanesque style.  (Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a picture of it during my last visit, since it was being restored).

The altarpiece in the center of the church is one of the most exquisite I've seen.  With ornate detail, covered in gold and jewels, it's almost impossible to take in all that it has to offer.

Visitors have the option of going both up into and down below the alter.  Pilgrims, historically, and even nowadays, go up into the alter, where they are able to hug the saint.  (In the past, the figure was covered in precious jewels, however, when people would hug him, they would bite them off with their teeth, leading to the decision to replace the real jewels with fakes).  Below the alter there is a small window, which gives a glimpse of the box containing the supposed remains of Saint James.

Entrance to the crypt of Santiago

Walking around the church, it is quickly apparent that it is shaped like a cross.  Along the outside walls are various smaller chapels, used for different ceremonies.  Some are bigger than others, but all are impressive in their own right.

In one of the chapels.
Can you see the shell and the cross?

For visitors that are feeling more adventurous, there is a roof-top tour.  You have to go ahead of time to buy your tickets, and they have both Spanish and English tours available.  Giving participants the "behind-the-scenes" view of the cathedral, you will be taken up the back stairs, around the balconies, and across the rooftop, which offers amazing views!  It is by far one of the best parts of visiting Santiago!

The entire city of Santiago is spotted with various plazas and parks.  The most famous of these is the Plaza del Obradoiro, from which you can see the main facade of the Cathedral.  The word Obradoiro in Gallego (the language spoken in Galicia) is very similar to its Spanish equivalent "obrador".  This means "workshop".  This could be an indication of the previous use of the plaza, where workshops and stores were set up for the pilgrims as they arrived to Santiago.  Now, the plaza is surrounded by the Cathedral on one side, the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos (which was a pilgrim hospital in its history, but is now a hotel- technically called a "Parador" which means it is owned by the Spanish government) the Colegio de San Jerome, and the Palacio de Raxio.

The true charm of this city is in discovering it for yourself.  Getting lost in the Casco Viejo, finding small cafes and shops, and taking in the sights.  The Rúa do Franco is the most famous street, as it is lined with bars, restaurants, and tiny shops.  The streets running parallel to it are equally as impressive, and it would be very easy to spend an entire afternoon wandering from one restaurant to another, ordering a "ración" or "tapa", strolling in and out of shops, and letting yourself get lost in the medieval feel that this city boasts.

The most famous dish in Santiago is the "pulpo" or octopus.  It's famous world-wide, and if you visit the northern region of Spain, it's a prerequisite to sample the amazing cuisine!

Speaking of food... While the entire city seems to be swarming with restaurant after restaurant and bar after bar, there is one place that is sure to please.  Hidden away, O Filandon is a tapas bar located in the back of a wine shop.  With a unique atmosphere and rustic vibe, visitors are warmed by a fireplace, while they enjoy a drink and some "embutido" (cured meats, like ham, chorizo, etc.) or a variety of other options! The walls are lined with napkins, which contain notes or messages from previous visitors, coming from all over the world to discover the magic of Santiago.   The place is small, so its better to go later (around 3-4) as this is the end of the lunch rush.

As if the city didn't have enough charm already, one of the most quintessential aspects of the city are the various street performers.  Located all around the old zone, musicians serenade the passerby with anything from guitar to gaita (a Galician bag-pipe).

A gaita performer (sorry the picture isn't very clear)

I think this is a dijurido!! 

In short, Santiago is the city of magic.  Pilgrims walking through the streets, locals bustling through their daily errands, all to the backdrop of Medieval Spain.  Being that it is located in Galicia, it is expected that it will rain, but this in a way adds to the city's "encanto", making the stones glisten in the street lights.

I can say for sure that this city is not done with me, and I will be going back as soon as possible.  Hopefully I'll do the Camino! 

Bilbao: Industry and Innovation

The northern region of Spain just south of France and neighboring Catalonia is known as "el País Vasco" or the Basque Country.  This is a region with an extremely rich culture and some very unique elements.

One of the most famous, and also most intreguing aspects of the Basque Country is the language spoken there.  While el País Vasco is part of Spain, and Spanish is spoken everywhere, the region boasts it's own tongue Euskera.  While this is also true in other regions of Spain (Galicia and Catalonia) what makes the Basque language unique is that it is the only language spoken in Western Europe that is not of Indo-European origin, and in fact, the origin is in itself a mystery.  There are some theories as to where it came from, but none have been proven.  

The largest city in the Basque Country is Bilbao, a city that is known for its factories and industrial history.  However, the city has been undergoing a sort of "remodeling" over the last few decades, and the once grey, gloomy metropolitan area has now been infused with culture, color, and its very own personality.  

Without a doubt, the most famous landmark in Biblao is the Guggenheim.  Opened in 1997, the museum was designed by Frank Gehry, and offers a modern and sleek architecture that instantly changed the landscape of the once industrial area.

Surrounding the Guggenheim are various other art pieces, each designed by different artists.  They all reflect a modern style, which will continue in the various exhibits in the museum.  

Puppy!

Inside you can find both permanent and temporary exhibits.  Unfortunately the contents are somewhat underwhelming compared to the structure itself.  However, entrance fees aren't overly priced (6-10 euro more or less depending on if you're a student or child, etc.) and while the exhibits were not comparable to what you might find in El Prado or La Reina Sofia in Madrid, the experience is still enjoyable, and the works are still worth seeing.  

inside the Guggenheim

A work of art inside the Guggenheim.
I wasn't able to take pictures of many of the pieces

Keeping in line with the modern, sleek feel this industrialized city boasts, the bridges that cross the River Nervión sprinkle in color, shape, and history.

  

Arguably, the most famous the Zubizuri (Basque for "white bridge") was designed by Calatrava, the same person who designed the Ciudad de Artes in Valencia.  The bridge was first opened in 1997.  While the bridge is impressive in its form, the practical purpose for which it was created, crossing it, presented a problem.  Due to its slippery walkway, pedestrians were constantly loosing their footing, and falling!  This was worsened by the rain (and in the north of Spain, rain is very common).  After some debates with the designer, the city decided to add grip-strips, allowing for a more secure footing.

The second bridge I will mention is the Arcos Rojos.  This bridge can be considered an external installation of the Guggenheim museum.  Designed by Daniel Buren, the bridge was opened on the tenth anniversary of the museum.  

Like almost every major city in Spain, Bilbao has its fair share of churches and cathedrals.  The most well-know is the Basilica de Begoña.  While reaching the top involves a walk up a hill, the trip is very much worth it.  The church celebrates the patron saint of Biscay (the territory in which Bilbao is situated) the Virgin Begoña.  Construction of the humble, yet elegant church began in the 16th century.  

In the heart of the old zone of Bilbao, you will find the Catedral de Santiago.  Built in the 14th-15th centuries, this cathedral celebrates Saint James.  As Bilbao is a key stop on the Camino de Santiago, the name is fitting.  

The old zone (or Casco Viejo) offers much more than the Cathedral.  A simple stroll through the streets is enough to make you instantly fall in love with the Basque charm.  The colorful buildings lining the streets, the signs in both Basque and Spanish, and the multitude of restaurants to choose from will make you lose yourself in the moment.  

Beautiful colors and buildings

The País Vasco is known for its gastronomy.  Offering a wide range of food and drinks, visitors can enjoy a lovely sit-down meal, or hop from bar to bar, sampling the various tapas on display.  Either way, the food is sure to please! 

After a delicious lunch, a quick walk through the old zone will bring you to the funicular.  A must-see when in Biblao.  Transporting visitors to a breath-taking look-out, the Artxanda Funicular is very inexpensive, making it more than worth the stop.  Bring your camera!  The views from the top are perfect photo-ops! 

On our way to the top!

Breath-taking view!

As if there isn't enough to see in Bilbao capital, one of the most famous landmarks is located just a short metro ride away, in the town of Portugalete.  Literally meaning, "hanging bridge", the puente colgante transports both pedestrians and vehicles from Portugalete on one side of the Nervion River to Getxo on the other. The "hanging" part of the bridge is literal, as you have to board a suspended gondola.  If you're feeling a little brave (and willing to pay the extra fee) you can also cross along the top, on foot.  

Bilbao is an amazing city, that offers everything from culture, to cuisine, to modern art with a mixture of historic charm.  There's something for everyone.  One drawback that visitors will find (which is not unique to Biblao, but an aspect of the País Vasco in general) is the prices.  Unlike many places in Spain, visiting this region will put a slight dent in your wallet.  However, if you plan wisely, it's worth the cost, as the city will not disappoint.  

Confessions of this "20-something"

This post is a little off topic from my usual posts.  I'm in the process now of finalizing another travel post about our most recent trip, it's just taking a little longer than expected.  Probably because I keep getting distracted by the Internet...
Which brings me to this current post.  It's one I wrote for my old blog, but never published.
On one of my (many) breaks between research and teaching, I, like most, scroll through Facebook.  Lately, I've seen a TON of posts about the 20-something generation.  This is what inspired my original post, and just reading yet another right now, I've decided to go ahead and share it with the world.

So, here it is.  This 20-something's thoughts on being 20-something:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The term "twenty-something" seems to be a 'trending' term on the Internet.  Something that pop culture has made... well, popular.  This idea that your twenties are the time of your life: your chance to experience everything.  Those awkward years between adult-hood, and the crazy college partying phase you're expected to just give up when you receive your diploma.  You're still allowed to mess up, to try things out, or to go a little over the edge.  It's the "trial" years of becoming a functioning member of society.  Or so the media tells us.

I've seen many articles about what to do, or not to do, in your 20s.  Get married young, don't get married young, live abroad, start your own company, buy a house, don't settle down in one place, and the list goes on.  Literally, they're all lists of why you should, or shouldn't do the afore mentioned things, and much much more.

You know what I think, if anyone cares to hear it, is that this generation of "twenty-somethings" has a "grass is always greener" complex.  We've been raised in the generation of "participation awards" and an "A for effort" mentality.  We've always been told we could have whatever it is we put our mind to.  Well, guess what?  Now we're adults, expected to decide what it is we really want, and we're sitting here wondering why we can't have it all?  Why can't I have the perfect little house, with the amazing "pintrest-style" kitchen, reading nook, etc., and still travel the globe?  I don't mean to speak for an entire generation here, don't get me wrong.  The point is, when mass media is sending us mixed signals about what we're supposed to be doing with our lives, no wonder we so called "twenty-somethings" are turning back to the very vehicle that made us to vent our frustration.  Blogs, videos, articles, you name it, they all address the issue of us; what are the 20-somethings supposed to be doing NOW?  I am no better.  I am a child of the Internet.  I grew up in a time of AIM (AOL instant messenger) and text messaging, google, facebook, and myspace. And here I am, putting my inner thoughts out there for the world to read.

Do I love my life? OF COURSE! I'm getting to see and experience things a lot of people never even dream of.  But, do I still get a little ping of jealousy when I see my friends back in the States moving into their new homes, and starting a stable life with children and careers?  I'd be lying if I said no.  After a day of working and not even really getting to enjoy the amazing city I live in (because I spend so much time inside teaching that I don't get to actually see it OR the worst, because I walk past the same amazing sights and monuments everyday, that they've lost their allure), I wish I were coming home to my own place, not some place I'm renting, which still has my landlord's stuff in it.

The point is, I'm sure that my friends that are back in the States with their stable jobs, happy families, and their own homes, are looking at my life, wishing they could explore, "let go a little" and "take chances".  At the end of the day, we "twenty-somethings" want what we don't have.  But that's ok!  That's what drives us, pushes us, and makes us tick.  Some of us get married young, and some of us don't.  Some of us move to foreign countries, while some of us stay in the same state, right down the street from where we grew up.  The point is, all of us are feeling the same thing.  Who are we?  Did we make the right decision?  That's what it means to be a 20-something.  To finally realize that our lives have been fluff, and we're not going to have everything we want, because by nature, we're always going to want what we don't have.  It's the time in our lives when we learn who we really are, and who we're going to be.  We're going to question our decisions, and the decisions of our friends, we're going to get frustrated with ourselves, and with society for "making us choose this career" because it offered a better pay.  At the end of the day, this is all part of the process of being a child of our own generation.  We're finding our own way to find ourselves.

And I say, "to each his own" because we're all going through the same thing, just in different ways.

So, this blog is, in essence my way of sharing my "20-something" life with the world.  It's not better or worse than other's, but it's mine.  My day-to-day life may be different than some, but, I guarantee at the end of the day, I still have the same questions racing through my mind as so many others from my generation.

Spain's quirky charm

In this post I'm going to recycle a little of a post I wrote in my old blog.  But I'll also be adding a few things as well.  Things in Spain that are different, take awhile to get used to, but now I kind of love.    

1.  Lunch and Dinner SUPER late!!

Lunch time is usually between 2-4 and dinner between 8-10.  It takes awhile to get used to, and I usually have to have some kind of snack between lunch and dinner.  

2.  Daily "siesta"

From 2:00pm until roughly 5:00pm everything closes (except a few bigger stores and the cafes/ bars).  This was frustrating at first because that would be the ideal time for me to run errands.  However, I like being forced to go home, eat, and relax for awhile.  Gives me time to appreciate life, reflect on my day, and plan my evening. 

3.  Throwing napkins and trash on the floors of bars and cafes

The first time I saw this happen, I was very surprised.  It happens even in the nicer cafes.  I've heard some different ideas as to why people do this, but I've come to think that it's simply because it makes cleaning up the bar easier!  It's actually to help keep the bar clean!!  When the crowd dies down, the waiters walk around, and can quickly sweep up all the napkins and trash, and the plates go straight to be washed.  It cuts out the middle step of separating trash from dishes.  

4.  Walking EVERYWHERE... ALL the time!!

Yes, I found this EXTREMELY annoying at first, and REALLY just wanted to jump in my car and drive wherever I had to go.  But now I enjoy this.  I actually love this to be honest.  I'm still busy studying and working, so I don't have as much time to work out as I would like.  But knowing that I'll be getting some sort of activity in my day (walking to and from the grocery store, caring 4 bags of groceries up 5 flights of stairs for example...) helps balance that out.  

5.  The lights in the bathrooms.

The normal expectation is that when you walk into a bathroom in a restaurant the lights will be on.  Well, not here! You have to turn them on, and they're generally on a timer.  This can be really frustrating when all of the sudden the lights go out, and yes, I would freak out the first few times this would happen, but now I expect it, and it's just a reflex to reach back up and turn them on.  No problem.  It's nice because it makes perfect sense! Why waste all that energy? 

6.  Not to mention every toilet flushes differently. 

Ok, not EVERY toilet, but yes, I have seen more creative ways of flushing toilets here than ever in my life.  There are some with buttons, some with those pull things that come down from the ceiling, some with foot petal things and the list goes on.  It's always an adventure!Oh, and ps I have yet to see a toilet with the normal handle on the side like we have in the States. 

7.  The street numbers don't always line up. 

So, you look up a restaurant that you want to go to, and the address is something like Gran Via 16.  When you're walking down the street, if you're on the "odd number" side of the street, be careful.  Just because you're at Gran Via 15, doesn't mean that the building directly across the street is 16, it could be 12, or it could be 32!!  You never know, so just be aware of that.  

8.  Lights in the hotel rooms

I'm not sure if this is all of Europe, or only Spain.  However, as I mentioned in #5 above, people here are much more energy conscious.  This carries over into the lights in the hotel rooms as well.  In order to work any electronic device or outlet in the hotel rooms, you have to put your key into a little slot by the door when you come in.  That's not too bad.  However, when you're leaving and want to let your camera or computer charge while you're out, they won't, because when you pull that key out of the slot, everything turns off.  

9.  There seems to be a national lack of toilet paper and soap

It may sound strange, but it's true.  Walking into a bathroom that doesn't have one, or both, of the items mentioned above is not uncommon.  It only takes a short time before you learn to prepare for this though.  Carrying tissue and hand sanitizer has come in handy many many times! 


For now, I'll leave it at that, but I'm sure there's more things that add to Spain's quirky charm.