Santiago de Compostela: The end of the Road

Since the discovery of what are believed to be the remains of St. James (an apostle of Christ) in the 9th century, millions of people have traveled to Santiago de Compostela, following one of the various routes known today as "El Camino de Santiago" or "The Way of St. James".  Throughout history, this pilgrimage has gone through highs and lows in terms of popularity, but has never completely ceased.  Today, pilgrims can choose from one of 13 different routes leading to the historic city, although the most famous is probably the "Camino Francés" (The French Way).

A "Camino" sign in
Segovia (Castilla y León)

All along the path, pilgrims follow signs, which lead them through the Iberian Peninsula.  These signs are all shaped like shells.  Any visitor to Spain has probably seen one of these at some point, as they appear in almost every major city.  The signs take on many different forms, some on the ground, some which appear like road signs, others are simply carved into stone.  Whatever they look like, they're hard to miss.  This shell has become one of the primary symbols of the Camino. The origins of this symbol have been disputed, but the most accepted myth dates back to the arrival of Saint James' body to Spain.  The story goes that while his followers were transporting him to the peninsula, a storm hit the ship, sending the body overboard.  Later, it is believed that it washed up on the shore of Galicia, covered in Scallop Shells.  The shell itself stands for various things, holding its own version of symbolism for the pilgrim.  For example, the grooves in the shell can be seen as the various routes, all leading to one point. Historically, it also served a purpose, as it was the perfect size and shape to be used to collect and drink water.  

Another famous symbol that can be seen all throughout Spain which has its origins in Santiago is "la cruz de Santiago" or "the cross of St. James".  It is shaped like a traditional cross, but with the end coming to a point, imitating the edge of a sword.  The most common image also has flor-de-lys on the sides.  This sign represents the Order of St. James.  Founded originally in the 12th century, the initial purpose of this group was to protect the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, and protect Christianity (as during this time, the peninsula was going through the "Reconquista", in which the Christian nations were waging a war against the Islamic occupation- lasting from 711-1492- of the souther regions).

It's hard to see, but the Cross is there on the outside of the balcony

Whether you decide to travel to Santiago by way of the Camino, or more mornern forms of transportation, the city still seems to hold a sense of magic for all who visit.  With the grey stone buildings, cobblestone roads, and narrow, winding streets, the city seems to be frozen in time.  Walking through the old zone (Casco Historico) will be sure to transport visitors back in time.  

The primary attraction of the city is the awe inspiring Cathedral.  Containing elements of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture, the original construction was started in 1075, with additions being done in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.  Easily one of the most impressive cathedrals in Spain, the outside is extremely ornate and simply breath-taking.

The inside of the Cathedral is as amazing as the outside.  Upon entering through the main doors, visitors are greeted by the original facade, which was covered with the newer additions.  It dates back to the 12th century, and has a Romanesque style.  (Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a picture of it during my last visit, since it was being restored).

The altarpiece in the center of the church is one of the most exquisite I've seen.  With ornate detail, covered in gold and jewels, it's almost impossible to take in all that it has to offer.

Visitors have the option of going both up into and down below the alter.  Pilgrims, historically, and even nowadays, go up into the alter, where they are able to hug the saint.  (In the past, the figure was covered in precious jewels, however, when people would hug him, they would bite them off with their teeth, leading to the decision to replace the real jewels with fakes).  Below the alter there is a small window, which gives a glimpse of the box containing the supposed remains of Saint James.

Entrance to the crypt of Santiago

Walking around the church, it is quickly apparent that it is shaped like a cross.  Along the outside walls are various smaller chapels, used for different ceremonies.  Some are bigger than others, but all are impressive in their own right.

In one of the chapels.
Can you see the shell and the cross?

For visitors that are feeling more adventurous, there is a roof-top tour.  You have to go ahead of time to buy your tickets, and they have both Spanish and English tours available.  Giving participants the "behind-the-scenes" view of the cathedral, you will be taken up the back stairs, around the balconies, and across the rooftop, which offers amazing views!  It is by far one of the best parts of visiting Santiago!

The entire city of Santiago is spotted with various plazas and parks.  The most famous of these is the Plaza del Obradoiro, from which you can see the main facade of the Cathedral.  The word Obradoiro in Gallego (the language spoken in Galicia) is very similar to its Spanish equivalent "obrador".  This means "workshop".  This could be an indication of the previous use of the plaza, where workshops and stores were set up for the pilgrims as they arrived to Santiago.  Now, the plaza is surrounded by the Cathedral on one side, the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos (which was a pilgrim hospital in its history, but is now a hotel- technically called a "Parador" which means it is owned by the Spanish government) the Colegio de San Jerome, and the Palacio de Raxio.

The true charm of this city is in discovering it for yourself.  Getting lost in the Casco Viejo, finding small cafes and shops, and taking in the sights.  The Rúa do Franco is the most famous street, as it is lined with bars, restaurants, and tiny shops.  The streets running parallel to it are equally as impressive, and it would be very easy to spend an entire afternoon wandering from one restaurant to another, ordering a "ración" or "tapa", strolling in and out of shops, and letting yourself get lost in the medieval feel that this city boasts.

The most famous dish in Santiago is the "pulpo" or octopus.  It's famous world-wide, and if you visit the northern region of Spain, it's a prerequisite to sample the amazing cuisine!

Speaking of food... While the entire city seems to be swarming with restaurant after restaurant and bar after bar, there is one place that is sure to please.  Hidden away, O Filandon is a tapas bar located in the back of a wine shop.  With a unique atmosphere and rustic vibe, visitors are warmed by a fireplace, while they enjoy a drink and some "embutido" (cured meats, like ham, chorizo, etc.) or a variety of other options! The walls are lined with napkins, which contain notes or messages from previous visitors, coming from all over the world to discover the magic of Santiago.   The place is small, so its better to go later (around 3-4) as this is the end of the lunch rush.

As if the city didn't have enough charm already, one of the most quintessential aspects of the city are the various street performers.  Located all around the old zone, musicians serenade the passerby with anything from guitar to gaita (a Galician bag-pipe).

A gaita performer (sorry the picture isn't very clear)

I think this is a dijurido!! 

In short, Santiago is the city of magic.  Pilgrims walking through the streets, locals bustling through their daily errands, all to the backdrop of Medieval Spain.  Being that it is located in Galicia, it is expected that it will rain, but this in a way adds to the city's "encanto", making the stones glisten in the street lights.

I can say for sure that this city is not done with me, and I will be going back as soon as possible.  Hopefully I'll do the Camino! 

Bilbao: Industry and Innovation

The northern region of Spain just south of France and neighboring Catalonia is known as "el País Vasco" or the Basque Country.  This is a region with an extremely rich culture and some very unique elements.

One of the most famous, and also most intreguing aspects of the Basque Country is the language spoken there.  While el País Vasco is part of Spain, and Spanish is spoken everywhere, the region boasts it's own tongue Euskera.  While this is also true in other regions of Spain (Galicia and Catalonia) what makes the Basque language unique is that it is the only language spoken in Western Europe that is not of Indo-European origin, and in fact, the origin is in itself a mystery.  There are some theories as to where it came from, but none have been proven.  

The largest city in the Basque Country is Bilbao, a city that is known for its factories and industrial history.  However, the city has been undergoing a sort of "remodeling" over the last few decades, and the once grey, gloomy metropolitan area has now been infused with culture, color, and its very own personality.  

Without a doubt, the most famous landmark in Biblao is the Guggenheim.  Opened in 1997, the museum was designed by Frank Gehry, and offers a modern and sleek architecture that instantly changed the landscape of the once industrial area.

Surrounding the Guggenheim are various other art pieces, each designed by different artists.  They all reflect a modern style, which will continue in the various exhibits in the museum.  

Puppy!

Inside you can find both permanent and temporary exhibits.  Unfortunately the contents are somewhat underwhelming compared to the structure itself.  However, entrance fees aren't overly priced (6-10 euro more or less depending on if you're a student or child, etc.) and while the exhibits were not comparable to what you might find in El Prado or La Reina Sofia in Madrid, the experience is still enjoyable, and the works are still worth seeing.  

inside the Guggenheim

A work of art inside the Guggenheim.
I wasn't able to take pictures of many of the pieces

Keeping in line with the modern, sleek feel this industrialized city boasts, the bridges that cross the River Nervión sprinkle in color, shape, and history.

  

Arguably, the most famous the Zubizuri (Basque for "white bridge") was designed by Calatrava, the same person who designed the Ciudad de Artes in Valencia.  The bridge was first opened in 1997.  While the bridge is impressive in its form, the practical purpose for which it was created, crossing it, presented a problem.  Due to its slippery walkway, pedestrians were constantly loosing their footing, and falling!  This was worsened by the rain (and in the north of Spain, rain is very common).  After some debates with the designer, the city decided to add grip-strips, allowing for a more secure footing.

The second bridge I will mention is the Arcos Rojos.  This bridge can be considered an external installation of the Guggenheim museum.  Designed by Daniel Buren, the bridge was opened on the tenth anniversary of the museum.  

Like almost every major city in Spain, Bilbao has its fair share of churches and cathedrals.  The most well-know is the Basilica de Begoña.  While reaching the top involves a walk up a hill, the trip is very much worth it.  The church celebrates the patron saint of Biscay (the territory in which Bilbao is situated) the Virgin Begoña.  Construction of the humble, yet elegant church began in the 16th century.  

In the heart of the old zone of Bilbao, you will find the Catedral de Santiago.  Built in the 14th-15th centuries, this cathedral celebrates Saint James.  As Bilbao is a key stop on the Camino de Santiago, the name is fitting.  

The old zone (or Casco Viejo) offers much more than the Cathedral.  A simple stroll through the streets is enough to make you instantly fall in love with the Basque charm.  The colorful buildings lining the streets, the signs in both Basque and Spanish, and the multitude of restaurants to choose from will make you lose yourself in the moment.  

Beautiful colors and buildings

The País Vasco is known for its gastronomy.  Offering a wide range of food and drinks, visitors can enjoy a lovely sit-down meal, or hop from bar to bar, sampling the various tapas on display.  Either way, the food is sure to please! 

After a delicious lunch, a quick walk through the old zone will bring you to the funicular.  A must-see when in Biblao.  Transporting visitors to a breath-taking look-out, the Artxanda Funicular is very inexpensive, making it more than worth the stop.  Bring your camera!  The views from the top are perfect photo-ops! 

On our way to the top!

Breath-taking view!

As if there isn't enough to see in Bilbao capital, one of the most famous landmarks is located just a short metro ride away, in the town of Portugalete.  Literally meaning, "hanging bridge", the puente colgante transports both pedestrians and vehicles from Portugalete on one side of the Nervion River to Getxo on the other. The "hanging" part of the bridge is literal, as you have to board a suspended gondola.  If you're feeling a little brave (and willing to pay the extra fee) you can also cross along the top, on foot.  

Bilbao is an amazing city, that offers everything from culture, to cuisine, to modern art with a mixture of historic charm.  There's something for everyone.  One drawback that visitors will find (which is not unique to Biblao, but an aspect of the País Vasco in general) is the prices.  Unlike many places in Spain, visiting this region will put a slight dent in your wallet.  However, if you plan wisely, it's worth the cost, as the city will not disappoint.